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Michelin’s inspection process, and the firewall it long maintained between the guides and the restaurant industry - no free meals, no sponsors, no advertising - have given it a special status. Poullenec said that “vibrancy” and “dynamic potential” are also taken into consideration, as an explanation of why rapidly growing Florida and Colorado - and Atlanta, coming next year - have guides, while New Orleans and New England do not. Since publishing its first American guide, to New York City, in 2005, Michelin has moved into California, Washington, D.C., Chicago and Florida. Gwendal Poullenec, the director of the guides, said in an interview that although the company accepts “partnership” money to offset the expenses of the review process, the decision about whether a region merits its own Michelin guide is determined solely by the company’s inspectors, who “assess the maturity” of the culinary scene as a preliminary step. Does the quest for stars generate excellence, or sameness? Do deals with the tourism industry and food brands suggest that Michelin’s attention and the prestige it confers are at least partly for sale? And can the stars keep their luster as Michelin selectively expands its universe? The Price of Admission Now, more sweeping questions are arising about what the guides mean in today’s culinary world. But they also voiced reservations about Michelin’s priorities and influence.Ĭuriosity has always swirled around how the company does its work: Who are the inspectors? How often do they visit? What does it take to rise from two stars to three? (The chefs Gordon Ramsay, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Thomas Keller and Alain Ducasse all began their empires by winning three stars, the highest rating.) In interviews, dozens of restaurateurs, chefs and officials across the country said the status the stars confer is priceless, and comes with vast earning potential.

In recent years, with competition from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list and other awards, the company has been aggressively seeking new ways to generate revenue, expand its geographic reach and modernize the idea of what makes a Michelin restaurant. Its stars have fueled the dreams of generations of chefs, and are always the first thing mentioned about restaurants that have them. The Michelin Guide, owned by the French tire manufacturer, is the world’s most widely recognized authority on fine dining.

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